The FW24 Guide to Overcoats
Drake's, Our Legacy, COS and more — 11 of my favourite overcoats this season.
Howdy all — flipping the format this week a bit, sticking to one category and rounding up some of the best overcoats for the season, but first a couple of quick bits from me…
Why Is Vintage Clothing So Popular? Menswear Expert Aaron Levine Answers
SHARP asked me to investigate the rise of vintage clothing in the modern wardrobe, so I reached out to menswear whisperer Aaron Levine. With stints at Abercrombie & Fitch, Madewell, ALD, and a pretty sizable if still niche presence on IG Aaron’s not exactly an influencer—but he’s an influential figure in menswear circles and he knows what he’s talking about. The final piece ended up being sort of a profile. Enjoy. Read it here
Body of Work at Haven
On Friday, I swung by the opening reception for Body of Work’s pop-up store at Haven. I wanted to shout them out here because it was the first time I had really seen the brand up close and I was super impressed by it! On display, they had the latest from their A/W24 collection including pieces like organic cotton French terry full-zip sweaters, sweatpants and hoodies, along with boxy long-sleeve polos and T-shirts. Founders Dwayne and Brittney have worked to make something that is rooted in quality and as such, they produce everything locally in Canada (we know knitwear here!).
Just last week, I was ready to list a couple of hoodies on Grailed, thinking hoodies just weren’t for me these days. Then I tried on their hoodie and realized—it’s not hoodies; it’s the ones I own that aren’t right. BoW’s version has a perfect weight, super-soft cotton, a flattering cut and crucially is totally unbranded. Go check them out at Haven.
11 of the best overcoats you can buy this year
It’s been warm and rainy so far, but soon we’ll be reaching for heavier layers, and when it comes to the winter season, there’s arguably no piece more important in your wardrobe than an overcoat.
We’ve hit peak GORPcore, so I know you’ve already got your North Face ready for when it gets really nasty. But sometimes, you need something more formal to make a statement when you’re out and about (at the same time a good overcoat will also spruce up the morning dog walk).
Luckily, designers are making some really interesting, dynamic coats, moving away from shorter, fitted styles (think J.Crew in 2012). Below you’ll find a lot of oversized (but not shapeless) Balmacaan styles — nothing overly structured or lawyerly.
A heads-up: overcoats aren’t typically cheap (there’s a lot of wool involved), but if one catches your eye, it’s an investment that will last a long time.
I’ve linked to Canadian shops wherever possible, with the list organized from most to least pricey.
Drake’s Raglan Herringbone Overcoat
I’m a big Drake’s guy. Not everything they do is for me and the prices have skyrocketed in recent years (what hasn’t?) but for me, the Balmacaan overcoats are some of their best work. When you slip one of these on you immediately feel the weight (a good thing). They have a sturdy collar, perfectly placed pockets, a dramatic back vent, and a beautiful A-line silhouette that drapes away from the body. I finally took the plunge last year, and I couldn’t recommend it more—it’s a piece I’ll wear for years and years. —$2,255 CAD
Ecole de Pensée Dogtooth Wool Overcoat
The lads at Ecole de Pensée in Montreal are always great at taking classic styles and slightly turning them on their head. This Italian wool overcoat with a large houndstooth pattern is a great example. — $1,999 CAD
You can see how expressive this coat is just from the photo here. And the rich chocolate brown? Get outta here! — $1,925 CAD
Kaptain Sunshine Umbrella Coat
Another take on the classic Balmacaan from Japan’s Kaptain Sunshine has it all, a sturdy collar, raglan sleeves and a hearty Donegal tweed. Beauty. — $1,895
Although they have great raglan options coming soon, if you need something more formal, Sweden’s Berg & Berg has a great structured DB for a decent price. They usually have good sales further into the season if you can hold off. —$1,884
Really good. Beautiful construction that ends at the calf, probably the longest coat on this list. LVMH just took a minority stake in OL so now’s the time to buy before they jack up the price and crank down the quality. —$1,175 CAD
Mfpen Recycled Wool Accession Coat
Mfpen’s thing is taking beautiful deadstock fabrics and using them to produce remarkable pieces. Love the check pattern and it also features a lovely A-frame drape. A bit shorter than I would personally prefer these days but beautiful nonetheless —$975 CAD
Known for their military/workwear vibes, Japa’s Sage de Cret offers up a classic Balmacaan style in soft melton wool that’s also fully lined. —$975 CAD
Spier & MacKay Gun Check Balmacaan
Spier & Mackay are always going to offer value. This coat is made from heavyweight wool tweed from famed English mill Abraham Moon and they’re giving it to you for under $800, which is rare for the quality of wool you’re getting. — $749 CA
I’m personally trying to wear more black and a simple overcoat is a good place to start. As far as the mall brands go, COS consistently delivers the goods. It’s simple but cool enough and the wool blend brings the price down a bit but will still keep a guy warm. —Approx $522 CAD
A nice overcoat under $200 is hard to come by but as usual, Uniqlo is here for us. This coat from Uniqlo’s capsule from their new CD Clare Waight Keller is simple but effective. — $179 CA
Some Links
From the Gap to Abercrombie, mall brands have staged their comeback and are going viral (The Globe & Mail) — Glad the Giant Fit chinos worked for Josh, they were indeed too giant for me!
The New Status Move: Designer Logos So Subtle They’re Barely There (WSJ) — Overdue.
Reimagining How to Dress a Pope (NYT) — Conclave was fine; costumes were great.
Thanks for reading.
—BK